Due to the problems with the Kurdish separatists and the proximity to Iran (almost at the border) and Iraq, the area around Dogubayazit is strongly militarized, there are more than 50,000 soldiers in the region.
You can not take pictures of the soldiers or military bases, but I had to do it ... and without creating a conflict.
We were coming back from the Ishak Pasa Palace walking, with every step leaving behind the border with Iran. It was 6km downhill going by piles of lava, fossils, and shepherds riding their donkeys while keeping and eye on their flocks of sheep, a skinny cow here or there eating by the side of the road and to our right, the imposing Mt. Ararat.
The last km. was walled and fenced with tons of razor wire, it was another military base, and every 300 feet you could see military posts with a couple of soldiers armed up to their teeth. Yes, I avoided looking straight at the machine guns because they gave me goosebumps.
All of a sudden I found myself in front of the perfect spot, a couple of meters without the wire blocking the lens of my camera and without hesitating I pulled the trigger. Mt. Ararat, majestic, with snow on its peak and at its base, military trucks and tanks.
Whistles didn't stop and a Kurdish man that was walking behind us was waiving his arms up in the air energetically and yelling "no! no! problem! problem!". Steve just said to me "You'll never learn" and stayed right by my side.
By then, right in front of me I had the biggest machine guns I had ever seen and right behind it there was a very serious soldier (understating the truth). I thought that to be proactive and to initiate the conversation would be the best alternative and with a smile full of teeth I said "sorry!, no more photos!". ...Anything but get my camera confiscated! ... think, Gaby... think!
A few minutes before, probably around Km 5 1/2, I said to Steve that I thought it was wonderful that he, beyond the language barrier, was able to establish some relationships with local guys by talking soccer. They even invited him to watch games and he would go.
I had this very serious soldier in front of me, probably thinking about what to do with me. "I'm Argentinean!"... nothing..."Diego Maradona? Messi?"...(this usually has a fantastic effect on Turkish guys because they LOVE soccer)... nothing... I pretended that I had a soccer ball at my feet and started playing with it, also pretending to kick it with my head... he finally smiled and said "You go on, but no more photos".. From there on, every 300 feet a phone would ring (right before we would go by) and the soldiers would tilt their heads as saying to us to keep on walking straight.
We finally arrived to the last soldier station, they had hung up the phone already and I could imagine the orders given. Without looking at the machine gun I said with a mischievous face "You no let me take you photo!"
"No, big boss don't like photo! - answered straigh faced.
My words just poured out of my lips as I was thinking them ... "it must be because he is ugly" and we kept on walking while he was cracking up and translating my comments to his friend. Steve later on reminded me that the "Big Boss" just happened to be the President of the country ... oops!
"psst... psst... where are you from?" he asked.
"Argentina, you know?"
"Yes, Messi!"
"You like Fenerbache?"
"Yes, but he likes Galatasaray" pointing at his friend with the gun.
"Then he doesn't like Burrito Ortega!" laughing and showing a 6 - 0 with my fingers.
We laughed, I looked at Steve (who was still wondering how was I able to walk out of that situation in such a way) and we kept going.
Galatasaray and Fenerbache are two of the major Turkish soccer teams and Burrito Ortega (Argentinean player) played for Fenerbache. Back in 2002 they won against Galatasaray for 6-0 and he scored one of the goals and assisted several others.
In this blog entry you can enjoy the photos I took there and a few extras that I took from the bus ride on our way out of Dogubayazit.
Gaby
By then, right in front of me I had the biggest machine guns I had ever seen and right behind it there was a very serious soldier (understating the truth). I thought that to be proactive and to initiate the conversation would be the best alternative and with a smile full of teeth I said "sorry!, no more photos!". ...Anything but get my camera confiscated! ... think, Gaby... think!
A few minutes before, probably around Km 5 1/2, I said to Steve that I thought it was wonderful that he, beyond the language barrier, was able to establish some relationships with local guys by talking soccer. They even invited him to watch games and he would go.
I had this very serious soldier in front of me, probably thinking about what to do with me. "I'm Argentinean!"... nothing..."Diego Maradona? Messi?"...(this usually has a fantastic effect on Turkish guys because they LOVE soccer)... nothing... I pretended that I had a soccer ball at my feet and started playing with it, also pretending to kick it with my head... he finally smiled and said "You go on, but no more photos".. From there on, every 300 feet a phone would ring (right before we would go by) and the soldiers would tilt their heads as saying to us to keep on walking straight.
We finally arrived to the last soldier station, they had hung up the phone already and I could imagine the orders given. Without looking at the machine gun I said with a mischievous face "You no let me take you photo!"
"No, big boss don't like photo! - answered straigh faced.
My words just poured out of my lips as I was thinking them ... "it must be because he is ugly" and we kept on walking while he was cracking up and translating my comments to his friend. Steve later on reminded me that the "Big Boss" just happened to be the President of the country ... oops!
"psst... psst... where are you from?" he asked.
"Argentina, you know?"
"Yes, Messi!"
"You like Fenerbache?"
"Yes, but he likes Galatasaray" pointing at his friend with the gun.
"Then he doesn't like Burrito Ortega!" laughing and showing a 6 - 0 with my fingers.
We laughed, I looked at Steve (who was still wondering how was I able to walk out of that situation in such a way) and we kept going.
Galatasaray and Fenerbache are two of the major Turkish soccer teams and Burrito Ortega (Argentinean player) played for Fenerbache. Back in 2002 they won against Galatasaray for 6-0 and he scored one of the goals and assisted several others.
In this blog entry you can enjoy the photos I took there and a few extras that I took from the bus ride on our way out of Dogubayazit.
Gaby
2 comments:
Gaby~! You are a crazy woman! You have me rolling with laughter!
Gaby: I've seen you wiggle through tight places...You do it so well. Steve keep a rein on that loved one....Like you could. Take good care. Love,Beth
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