Dead Sea





Our taxi driver was driving down the Dead Sea Highway as we passed more military check points and kids riding camels when out of nowhere a spectacular blue lake opened up in front of our eyes. We looked at each other and I instantly knew that we would be there for the rest of the day and made the decision to let our driver go.

The Dead Sea is about 65km long and is the lowest point on earth, at 408meters below sea level. The locals refer to it as the "stinging sea" due to its waters six times saltier than the ocean. It is a bad thing if the water gets into your eyes, mouth, open cuts or even mosquito bites, but at the same time they are supposed to have curative powers for skin diseases. The low levels of UV rays and high oxygen are good for your health and the Dead Sea mud contains calcium and magnesium good for allergies and bronchial infections, pungent bromine to help with relaxation, iodine to alleviate certain glandular ailments and bitumen to improve skin. If it was good enough for Herod the Great and Cleopatra who used to visit this natural Spa, it was certainly going to be great for me!

We left our things under an umbrella on the beach and started walking into the water. It felt as thick as coagulating Jello and as slippery as soap. It was definitely a different consistency than what we had ever experienced before. The minute the waters would reach your waist level, your feet would pop up into the open sky as if someone underneath you would have tackled you backwards. If we tried to swim, a powerful force from within would flip you around like a burger on a skillet. We just laid upwards looking at both the Jordanian and Israeli coasts as we chit chatted among us and with other travelers.

The Dead Sea is dying. The Jordan River is not feeding it much water, some is diverted for irrigation, evaporation is very high and pharmaceutical companies are using the salts and muds for beauty products. The Dead Sea has lost 30% of its waters in recent years. Shell is also studying alternative fuels by researching its salts and if that project where to happen the Dead Sea would become an "Alive Sea" where fish and plants would be able to survive. The only thing that could stop that would be religious issues which are definitely present in these countries and the cooperation from Israel, Palestine and Jordan. And thus, a resolution of the peace process itself ... and that may take some time.

Steve pointed out a mud hole where some people were getting covered up and I slowly swam my way there. I covered myself in mud from had to toe and waited for the brownish thick paste to penetrate my skin while talking to a Jordanian history teacher that had just come back to the country after a long stay in England. As the sun set over Israel we breathed in the peaceful scenery and regretfully declined a BBQ at the beach, we realized it was way too late and public transportation had stopped a couple of hours earlier.

Coming out of the beach we realized that there were no taxis that could take us the 30+km back to Madaba and luckily we ran into a young Swiss couple that was staying at our hotel, they offered us something we couldn't decline, a lift in their rental car.

As if the day had not been eventful enough, on our way to grab some dinner we were surrounded by a group of young teenagers eager to practice their English. A wedding was in process and they insisted we join them. All I recall is a bunch of hands leading me to a room full of women. The bride sat in her spotless white gown on a stage while I, holding hands with the women dressed in their traditional dresses, learned to dance the local dances in circles. It was fun but somewhat shocking to realize that men, including the groom, where celebrating the same event in an adjacent room.

It was a busy day and after absorbing so much information we slept like babies that night.

Gaby

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